The Unsung Hero

There are so many heroes out there in the world, which is heartening to know. Perhaps you've never met an actual hero yet in your lifetime? Or on the contrary you've known several. Either way you're about to be in the presence of one after you choose your wedding gown! That person is your seamstress or tailor. A skilled, knowledgeable person who will guide you through your final few months and transform your already amazing gown into something unique only to you...your custom fit wedding gown! These wonderful people are often overlooked and hardly ever get the glory the sales consultant enjoys. They are usually the last a bride meets as she inches closer to her wedding day. With all the excitement building in her mind, she doesn't have the time or mental stamina to form a relationship with the person who pins her gown. But it is the fingertips of these people who guide your gown through a sewing machine and reconstruct it to fitted perfection.

The alteration process can be daunting to many brides. They are usually very, nervous when they try on a wedding gown they selected months prior. Because gowns take several months to arrive, I've actually heard brides say they forgot many details about the gown. Seeing the gown again usually is a joyous time as it reminds the bride of her excellent choice and that her wedding day is approaching. Anxiety is also present in the fitting room as the seamstress zips the gown and attempts to place pins where the alterations are needed. It is these heroes who quietly calm the bride with their confident prudence and assure her they will take every step to care for her precious garment.

Not only does the bride have to trust her wedding gown will be altered flawlessly, the boutique and its staff need to trust as well. The reputation of the boutique is closely intertwined with its alteration staff as the two are synergistic partners. You cannot have one with out the other in a custom order environment. It is imperative for a boutique to have an impeccable, alterations department devoted only to the wedding ensemble. This is why purchasing a wedding gown online is extremely risky.

In this global economy, sadly the couturier is a dying breed. Almost gone are the days when a bride visited a dress shop and a couturier designed and produced a wedding gown in house unique to only her measurements. Many wedding gowns in affordable price points are manufactured according to  general size scales the company dictates. The result an ill fitting wedding gown that arrives at the boutique despite the correct size ordered. Your gown then falls literally in the hands of the person who greets you with a pin cushion. He or she is charged with the crucial task to carve the gown shell into a brilliant, cameo.

It is not my intention to make the bride feel guilt for not recognizing this hero. The humility of their workmanship is why I see them as heroes and maybe you will see it too. They send brides down the the aisle with a smile all in a days work.

Out with the new, in with old...

Pinch me! I'm back in my very own heaven. Writing again about brides, vintage goodies and a fun announcement to share is too good to be true!

On this last day of 2013 I would be remiss not to thank you from the bottom of my heart for lending you eyes to my blog. I sorely missed being away from my keyboard all these months, but I'm bursting at the seams excited to resume my posts, retool my blog page a bit and.....

I'll be launching a tiny, but mighty little biz I'm calling "Brooch vintage Accessories".  It will comprise of fabulous vintage jewelry, head pieces, and handbags I've curated this year and years' past. It will be a wonderful collection for any bride or her favorite ladies to choose a perfect accent piece for the wedding ensemble. I'm still adding some final details, but when it's ready for the world to see I'll certainly share!

Mesmerizing! Exquisite enamel brooch..1920s.

I'll end this post on this final evening of the year with this last notion. Ironically this year I've gravitated toward contemporary, modern lines in Spring 2014 wedding gowns. But it really isn't ironic at all.

I can have my cake and eat it too and so can you! Modern can meet vintage and they are quite a suitable pair! This gown encompasses this concept well. A ball gown silhouette of the 1950s with tulle, honeycomb detail worthy of today's couture taste. Old is new and new is old. The past is just a recycled part of today. Look ahead to all the wonderful creations we have yet to see and wear in 2014 with a wink to a past just a whisper away!
Happy New Year!!

The Modern Maid

I don't normally encourage the bride to match her maids and vice versa. The bride's look should be the focal visual of the day. However, when a bride asks my thoughts for attendants I always give a match, but don't match reply. The word "match" conjures 1980s prom when the date wore a light blue vest and tie to match the light blue dress equipped with a light blue corsage. 

The wedding party should look like they're attending the same wedding, but that's where it ends. As long as the color story of the wedding is reflected somehow in the attendants' garments it's current, fresh and very sophisticated. I love how some of these ensemble looks are put together. The primary colors pop with the fun, blush tulle gown. The muted blushes and tropical prints work beautifully. I also like the tonal looks as well where one color of different variations is used. The bridal party should frame the bride and groom not to overwhelm and distract, but augment and soften. All of these are textbook.

 

 Of course my vintage spin I always weave in my posts must be mentioned. You could say very early vintage, in the times of the Roman Empire, the function of the bridesmaid and groomsman were to shun evil spirits away from the couple. Thus why they dressed like the couple to confuse those unwanted wedding guests/spirits. Later the girls' function were to protect the bride from being kidnapped, again by dressing in decoy fashion, so she could safely arrive to the groom's village and be wed uneventfully.

That tradition continued for centuries all the way until relatively modern times. Though I don't love the over coordinated matching as mentioned, these maiden garments are exquisite. I especially gush over the colored veils/hats each bridesmaid wore in those years.

One last morsel of knowledge I will disclose is this. Don't purchase your attendants' attire before the gown is chosen. You need to fall in love with your gown and all its splendor. Once you do, let it take you away in your creativity. It will not only guide you down the aisle feeling your best, but it will unleash your style unique only to you. The gorgeous frame will be complete and the spirits gone!

Fashion Novelty

Fall 2013 Matthew Christopher 

It's so many things. Fashion is art, it's expression, it's breathtaking, it's life's reflection and it's green. It recycles. It takes ideas and recreates, reuses and collides them with new, talent. The result a new trend that may last a season or several. The essence of this recycling is what I love about retro looks of today. That delicate balance of vintage tailoring combined with a modern silhouette (photo above) makes me swoon. For the bride this translates to an important trend or dare I say novelty this season.. the sleeve.

I can call it a novelty, because two years ago I would rarely have a bride ask to see a wedding gown with sleeves. It was clear designers had something up their sleeve (pun intended) slightly before HRH Catherine took the aisle in her Alexander McQueen full sleeved, gown. There were hints of such shoulder coverings, but until I saw the runway last Fall even I was pleasantly surprised the time had come in full force. Sleeves that I haven't seen since the late 1990s have returned to offer brides a plethora of necklines to choose from. In fact, brides shopping for gowns today have the most choice available to them in years. Strapless fans shouldn't balk, because that neckline is still very, popular, but the infusion of sleeves this season, will be the talk of stylists everywhere who can offer this beautiful, option to their clients.

Valentino

If you are torn about sleeves and not quite sure you want fully constructed arm wear, I adore the illusion neckline as an alternative. So feminine and soft the illusion offers the hint of skin covered with a sheer fabric. It's perfect for a petite or broad frame because it doesn't overwhelm but delivers a bold look. The gold Elie Saab gown above would be extremely heavy and too overdone without the exquisite illusion neckline it features. The dress is magical floating on the body flawlessly.

Other necklines shown above in this group of masterpieces by Marchesa show a multitude of sleeve renditions that leave me speechless. The necklines and sleeves drape the shoulders so artfully they create a delicate frame for the face. A higher neckline forces the admirer's eye to the face, which is very important for a bride and her many photographs.

It may not be the newest trend to hit the block, but the sleeve's revival this year makes it fun for a bride to explore and enjoy. Until seasons pass and designer's move on to their next princess muse, it's a fashion novelty we'll happily indulge!

Your trellis

My grandmother lived in a city with its generous share of asphalt, but she did have beautiful backyard albeit what some might say a "postage stamp" size. I always loved her lush, green yard that was tucked between mature oak trees and a cement block garage. The view above was dotted with porches from two decked, family homes. Amidst these urban reminders was an old, painted trellis in her yard with climbing rose vines. The light, pink roses bloomed in late June with gradual petal drop throughout the summer. The end result was a carpet of rose petals beneath the trellis. That image lead my imagination to believe there was a wedding in her backyard. The bride and groom took their vows under the trellis and walked over the rose petals as husband and wife. The bride wore an exquisite gown that floated over the blush petals upon her exit. That trellis became so much more than a pretty accent to a yard. Though I may have been unaware, my future wedding planning had commenced.

Strapless ball gown by Enzoani

As a stylist whose charge is to find the perfect wedding gown for brides, I always consider the "trellis" that is unique to each client. Perhaps a bride didn't have the actual trellis experience I did, but wedding imagery and inspiration is most definitely stored in the mind of every bride. The challenge is to elicit and combine those dreamy thoughts with a flattering, dynamic gown. When the wedding gown nods to the dream and makes you feel spectacular, that is the dress for you!

Illusion neck column gown by Rosa Clara

It is very common to be completely unaware of your "trellis" thoughts and/or equally common to choose a gown that is not what you initially planned. You go to a bridal boutique with a notion of ballerina tulle on a dramatic ball gown skirt as pictured above, but you choose a gown like the exquisite Rosa Clara soft column silhouette. The whisper of tulle is still present and should be, but the shape and fit of the gown enhance the body more so than the ball gown.

Allow your stylist to guide you toward the gown that works for you, but in doing so don't surrender your "trellis" that has been with you all your life. Being a bride gives you the opportunity to wear a garment that shows who you are as an individual today, with a glimpse of your dreams too. Don't ignore the voice that says "I've always wanted...", because you're not dreaming anymore.

Luscious, Luxe, Lines

Say it isn't so a bride may anxiously react. That seam actually looks good? My response in the fitting room is an abounding, exuberant Yes!  Seams equate to lines, which happen to be all over a wedding garment. Sometimes seams are designed to be seen others are only inside as part of the dress construction. A designer will thoughtfully create a gown with such lines to enhance the fit and shape of the piece or they will use linear embellishment as focal points. Many brides don't notice "structure" seams on the bodice of a gown or skirt. They just like how the gown looks and feels. I assisted a bride recently who simply said "make me look beautiful." She trusted I would find the gown that perfectly complimented her body type, which I achieved via the lines/structured seams of the gown.

So 1920s by BHLDN

1930s inspired deco gown by Yolan Cris

Chiffon dream by Versace

Then there are those architectural lines many designers are using as embellishment. Last month at bridal fashion week in NYC, I was dizzy with the revival of the art deco look in gowns! The art deco period emerged in the 1920s and spanned worldwide from fashion to skyscrapers until the late 1940s. I was elated to see the "Gatsby" look has returned for brides of today to enjoy. The glorious, linear symmetry which is classic art deco will be seen on bridal gowns in dramatic form like the photos above and in subtle ways as well. Not all brides will gravitate to such looks, but the trend will thread through even the most classic of gowns with symmetric beading and illusion (sheer), higher necklines. Sometimes even the fabric itself will have textured, linear looks that a designer may use like the stunning, lace illusion gown by Yolan Cris to the left. A beautiful choice by the way for a rehearsal, change out dress or just fantastic evening wear.

BHLDN.com

If the a bride doesn't gravitate toward this retro glam look, another way stylists create flattering lines is simply with accessories. Our world is covered in linear options..who knew! When you think about it, jewelry creates lines or should I dare say seams! The layered pearls create drama, dimensional interest and elongate the bodice all at once. I love the contrast of fabric texture in the gown with the luster of the pearls. Of course, I would be remiss to not include a fun, retro handbag one could include with any gown a bride chooses art deco or not. This clutch says on trend, fresh 2013 without diving into it fabric and all. Trends will come and go, which is why a bride should always choose a gown that she loves for her not for necessarily the latest trend. Let the stylist worry about trends and as she will know which ones to select for each unique, bride. Don't be surprised if you see lines covering you somewhere, because in some way subtle or not they will do their job well.

le Chapeau

House of Bianchi 1965

My reverence for vintage pieces yet again inspires my post . This stunning pillbox gem to the left was worn by a bride in 1965, my mom. The original, diaphanous tulle blusher around the hat ignites the fine detail of the embroidery and beading.
The hat could be worn today if a bride wanted to add a little 60s retro to her modern gown.

Hats have been part of the human culture for centuries. We know they were designed for practical purposes, but many over the years have been works of art created for fashion. Hats became an accessory women and men for many years wouldn't leave their homes without. Coco Chanel got her start in the early 1900s designing hats before she transitioned to clothing.  Alas in the last thirty years Americans have entirely excluded the beautiful, head ornament from their wardrobes. In my lifetime, I can't remember making sure I had a pretty hat to match my outfit. I was a child of the 1970s and by then hats were left in their hatboxes tucked away on a closet shelf.

There is one day, however, you can consider a hat for a fashion statement. Your wedding day calls for a reflection of your style and if wearing a pillbox fits with your aesthetic I applaud your choice! Perhaps your mom or another relative has one tucked away somewhere like my mom did. Or there are many talented, fresh designers out there who would love to assist you with this accessory. Placement of the hat is actually very important to update this look from the past. I really like how this bride has her hair down with the pillbox placed just to the side of her head. She also doesn't have a birdcage blusher attached which makes even more of a statement contrasted with her dark hair. This is an amazing look nodding to the past, but very chic and modern. My dream combination personified here!

If you don't think a pillbox or other type of hat will work in your ensemble others to consider that I absolutely adore are the bridal cap (almost a scull/juliet cap) and the fascinator. The cap to the left by Enchanted Atelier is so dramatic and stunning. It almost acts like bangs that draw attention to the eyes. I love its middle age inspiration paired with a strapless gown.
The fascinator to the right is designed by Amanda Sutherland Designer Accessories UK. There isn't a fascinator I don't like as they conjure whimsy and statement all in one morsel, but this one is truly exquisite on this bride's tresses. It gives an almost hat effect, but so couture in its presence.
It creates height and

brings drama to the ensemble enough so that even jewelry is not necessary.
I'm also a huge veil girl. I'll post another day to give veils their deserved mention. These looks above are worn in place of a veil. If you decide the above are simply not you and certainly that is most important, wearing a traditional veil on your wedding day speaks volumes!

Whatever you decide to accessorize on your head will be perfect because you chose it. Having said that, perhaps take a peek inside one of those hatboxes you or a relative may have stored somewhere in a closet or attic. There are so many vintage consignment shoppes popping up everywhere. Maybe pay one a visit. Just holding a hat from another time in your hand can mesmerize the mind and offer perspective and creativity only a hat can.