The Modern Maid

I don't normally encourage the bride to match her maids and vice versa. The bride's look should be the focal visual of the day. However, when a bride asks my thoughts for attendants I always give a match, but don't match reply. The word "match" conjures 1980s prom when the date wore a light blue vest and tie to match the light blue dress equipped with a light blue corsage. 

The wedding party should look like they're attending the same wedding, but that's where it ends. As long as the color story of the wedding is reflected somehow in the attendants' garments it's current, fresh and very sophisticated. I love how some of these ensemble looks are put together. The primary colors pop with the fun, blush tulle gown. The muted blushes and tropical prints work beautifully. I also like the tonal looks as well where one color of different variations is used. The bridal party should frame the bride and groom not to overwhelm and distract, but augment and soften. All of these are textbook.

 

 Of course my vintage spin I always weave in my posts must be mentioned. You could say very early vintage, in the times of the Roman Empire, the function of the bridesmaid and groomsman were to shun evil spirits away from the couple. Thus why they dressed like the couple to confuse those unwanted wedding guests/spirits. Later the girls' function were to protect the bride from being kidnapped, again by dressing in decoy fashion, so she could safely arrive to the groom's village and be wed uneventfully.

That tradition continued for centuries all the way until relatively modern times. Though I don't love the over coordinated matching as mentioned, these maiden garments are exquisite. I especially gush over the colored veils/hats each bridesmaid wore in those years.

One last morsel of knowledge I will disclose is this. Don't purchase your attendants' attire before the gown is chosen. You need to fall in love with your gown and all its splendor. Once you do, let it take you away in your creativity. It will not only guide you down the aisle feeling your best, but it will unleash your style unique only to you. The gorgeous frame will be complete and the spirits gone!

Fashion Novelty

Fall 2013 Matthew Christopher 

It's so many things. Fashion is art, it's expression, it's breathtaking, it's life's reflection and it's green. It recycles. It takes ideas and recreates, reuses and collides them with new, talent. The result a new trend that may last a season or several. The essence of this recycling is what I love about retro looks of today. That delicate balance of vintage tailoring combined with a modern silhouette (photo above) makes me swoon. For the bride this translates to an important trend or dare I say novelty this season.. the sleeve.

I can call it a novelty, because two years ago I would rarely have a bride ask to see a wedding gown with sleeves. It was clear designers had something up their sleeve (pun intended) slightly before HRH Catherine took the aisle in her Alexander McQueen full sleeved, gown. There were hints of such shoulder coverings, but until I saw the runway last Fall even I was pleasantly surprised the time had come in full force. Sleeves that I haven't seen since the late 1990s have returned to offer brides a plethora of necklines to choose from. In fact, brides shopping for gowns today have the most choice available to them in years. Strapless fans shouldn't balk, because that neckline is still very, popular, but the infusion of sleeves this season, will be the talk of stylists everywhere who can offer this beautiful, option to their clients.

Valentino

If you are torn about sleeves and not quite sure you want fully constructed arm wear, I adore the illusion neckline as an alternative. So feminine and soft the illusion offers the hint of skin covered with a sheer fabric. It's perfect for a petite or broad frame because it doesn't overwhelm but delivers a bold look. The gold Elie Saab gown above would be extremely heavy and too overdone without the exquisite illusion neckline it features. The dress is magical floating on the body flawlessly.

Other necklines shown above in this group of masterpieces by Marchesa show a multitude of sleeve renditions that leave me speechless. The necklines and sleeves drape the shoulders so artfully they create a delicate frame for the face. A higher neckline forces the admirer's eye to the face, which is very important for a bride and her many photographs.

It may not be the newest trend to hit the block, but the sleeve's revival this year makes it fun for a bride to explore and enjoy. Until seasons pass and designer's move on to their next princess muse, it's a fashion novelty we'll happily indulge!

Your trellis

My grandmother lived in a city with its generous share of asphalt, but she did have beautiful backyard albeit what some might say a "postage stamp" size. I always loved her lush, green yard that was tucked between mature oak trees and a cement block garage. The view above was dotted with porches from two decked, family homes. Amidst these urban reminders was an old, painted trellis in her yard with climbing rose vines. The light, pink roses bloomed in late June with gradual petal drop throughout the summer. The end result was a carpet of rose petals beneath the trellis. That image lead my imagination to believe there was a wedding in her backyard. The bride and groom took their vows under the trellis and walked over the rose petals as husband and wife. The bride wore an exquisite gown that floated over the blush petals upon her exit. That trellis became so much more than a pretty accent to a yard. Though I may have been unaware, my future wedding planning had commenced.

Strapless ball gown by Enzoani

As a stylist whose charge is to find the perfect wedding gown for brides, I always consider the "trellis" that is unique to each client. Perhaps a bride didn't have the actual trellis experience I did, but wedding imagery and inspiration is most definitely stored in the mind of every bride. The challenge is to elicit and combine those dreamy thoughts with a flattering, dynamic gown. When the wedding gown nods to the dream and makes you feel spectacular, that is the dress for you!

Illusion neck column gown by Rosa Clara

It is very common to be completely unaware of your "trellis" thoughts and/or equally common to choose a gown that is not what you initially planned. You go to a bridal boutique with a notion of ballerina tulle on a dramatic ball gown skirt as pictured above, but you choose a gown like the exquisite Rosa Clara soft column silhouette. The whisper of tulle is still present and should be, but the shape and fit of the gown enhance the body more so than the ball gown.

Allow your stylist to guide you toward the gown that works for you, but in doing so don't surrender your "trellis" that has been with you all your life. Being a bride gives you the opportunity to wear a garment that shows who you are as an individual today, with a glimpse of your dreams too. Don't ignore the voice that says "I've always wanted...", because you're not dreaming anymore.

Luscious, Luxe, Lines

Say it isn't so a bride may anxiously react. That seam actually looks good? My response in the fitting room is an abounding, exuberant Yes!  Seams equate to lines, which happen to be all over a wedding garment. Sometimes seams are designed to be seen others are only inside as part of the dress construction. A designer will thoughtfully create a gown with such lines to enhance the fit and shape of the piece or they will use linear embellishment as focal points. Many brides don't notice "structure" seams on the bodice of a gown or skirt. They just like how the gown looks and feels. I assisted a bride recently who simply said "make me look beautiful." She trusted I would find the gown that perfectly complimented her body type, which I achieved via the lines/structured seams of the gown.

So 1920s by BHLDN

1930s inspired deco gown by Yolan Cris

Chiffon dream by Versace

Then there are those architectural lines many designers are using as embellishment. Last month at bridal fashion week in NYC, I was dizzy with the revival of the art deco look in gowns! The art deco period emerged in the 1920s and spanned worldwide from fashion to skyscrapers until the late 1940s. I was elated to see the "Gatsby" look has returned for brides of today to enjoy. The glorious, linear symmetry which is classic art deco will be seen on bridal gowns in dramatic form like the photos above and in subtle ways as well. Not all brides will gravitate to such looks, but the trend will thread through even the most classic of gowns with symmetric beading and illusion (sheer), higher necklines. Sometimes even the fabric itself will have textured, linear looks that a designer may use like the stunning, lace illusion gown by Yolan Cris to the left. A beautiful choice by the way for a rehearsal, change out dress or just fantastic evening wear.

BHLDN.com

If the a bride doesn't gravitate toward this retro glam look, another way stylists create flattering lines is simply with accessories. Our world is covered in linear options..who knew! When you think about it, jewelry creates lines or should I dare say seams! The layered pearls create drama, dimensional interest and elongate the bodice all at once. I love the contrast of fabric texture in the gown with the luster of the pearls. Of course, I would be remiss to not include a fun, retro handbag one could include with any gown a bride chooses art deco or not. This clutch says on trend, fresh 2013 without diving into it fabric and all. Trends will come and go, which is why a bride should always choose a gown that she loves for her not for necessarily the latest trend. Let the stylist worry about trends and as she will know which ones to select for each unique, bride. Don't be surprised if you see lines covering you somewhere, because in some way subtle or not they will do their job well.

le Chapeau

House of Bianchi 1965

My reverence for vintage pieces yet again inspires my post . This stunning pillbox gem to the left was worn by a bride in 1965, my mom. The original, diaphanous tulle blusher around the hat ignites the fine detail of the embroidery and beading.
The hat could be worn today if a bride wanted to add a little 60s retro to her modern gown.

Hats have been part of the human culture for centuries. We know they were designed for practical purposes, but many over the years have been works of art created for fashion. Hats became an accessory women and men for many years wouldn't leave their homes without. Coco Chanel got her start in the early 1900s designing hats before she transitioned to clothing.  Alas in the last thirty years Americans have entirely excluded the beautiful, head ornament from their wardrobes. In my lifetime, I can't remember making sure I had a pretty hat to match my outfit. I was a child of the 1970s and by then hats were left in their hatboxes tucked away on a closet shelf.

There is one day, however, you can consider a hat for a fashion statement. Your wedding day calls for a reflection of your style and if wearing a pillbox fits with your aesthetic I applaud your choice! Perhaps your mom or another relative has one tucked away somewhere like my mom did. Or there are many talented, fresh designers out there who would love to assist you with this accessory. Placement of the hat is actually very important to update this look from the past. I really like how this bride has her hair down with the pillbox placed just to the side of her head. She also doesn't have a birdcage blusher attached which makes even more of a statement contrasted with her dark hair. This is an amazing look nodding to the past, but very chic and modern. My dream combination personified here!

If you don't think a pillbox or other type of hat will work in your ensemble others to consider that I absolutely adore are the bridal cap (almost a scull/juliet cap) and the fascinator. The cap to the left by Enchanted Atelier is so dramatic and stunning. It almost acts like bangs that draw attention to the eyes. I love its middle age inspiration paired with a strapless gown.
The fascinator to the right is designed by Amanda Sutherland Designer Accessories UK. There isn't a fascinator I don't like as they conjure whimsy and statement all in one morsel, but this one is truly exquisite on this bride's tresses. It gives an almost hat effect, but so couture in its presence.
It creates height and

brings drama to the ensemble enough so that even jewelry is not necessary.
I'm also a huge veil girl. I'll post another day to give veils their deserved mention. These looks above are worn in place of a veil. If you decide the above are simply not you and certainly that is most important, wearing a traditional veil on your wedding day speaks volumes!

Whatever you decide to accessorize on your head will be perfect because you chose it. Having said that, perhaps take a peek inside one of those hatboxes you or a relative may have stored somewhere in a closet or attic. There are so many vintage consignment shoppes popping up everywhere. Maybe pay one a visit. Just holding a hat from another time in your hand can mesmerize the mind and offer perspective and creativity only a hat can.

Freedom

On this last day of August, I leave the month with a grin and memories of an exceptional, day that occurred this late summer month. I was married in August 1994 wearing my white, cap sleeved, silk organza basque waisted wedding gown with an alencon lace bodice handcrafted in Charlestown, MA by Priscilla of Boston. I accessorized with a matching wreath styled headpiece adorned with organza and lace flowers attached to four layers of elbow to cathedral length veiling.  I also wore Mariam Haskell pearl, drop earrings as a finishing touch.The day of our anniversary I decided it was time for my beloved, gown to breath fresh air again and be released from the preservation box I diligently acquired so my dress would stay safe. The excitement flooded back when I touched the dress again instead of just "viewing" it from the window on the preservation box! The crunch of the organza skirt and twinkle of the beading on the bodice conjured sheer bliss and butterflies just as it did the day I wore it.

my dress circa 1994

When trying to select "the one" gown, many brides mention they want to still like the dress years from the wedding day and not ask "what was I thinking?". After freeing my gown that day I realized the gown was certainly not the style of today and perhaps not even what I'd choose now because our taste and style evolves as we mature. However, I still love my wedding gown. It is radiant and captures my youth, which every woman will enjoy feeling no matter when they decide to take a peek at it either in photos or in person. Try not to let that "what was I thinking" ever question enter your mind when deciding on your special, dress. The words "yours" and "special" are what a wedding gown is and will be forever.

Marchesa Fall 2012..Deco neckline!

A quick mention about gown preservation I learned from talented seamstresses I've working with over the years. I wasn't in the wedding industry at the time of my wedding or I would have taken my own advice back then and saved myself some money. You really don't have to get your gown "preserved", which is an extended service beyond dry cleaning. After the wedding, if the gown is significantly soiled you may want to consider a reputable dry cleaner that specializes in wedding gowns to clean it. After it is cleaned or not, store the gown in an old bed sheet that acts as a garment bag. Store it in a well ventilated or air-conditioned closet. The sheet allow the fabric to breath instead of plastic that traps moisture and invites mold.

I will say my gown is out of style now, but as anyone knows fashion is cyclical. Inspiration is always taken from the past. That is one of the reasons why I'm obsessed with vintage gowns because you see so much of them relived in today's styles. I'm dying to get to New York market in October as the Gatsbyesque, art-deco, Princess Kate influences started and will continue to dominate the runways! I'll let you know soon!

Enzoani Fall 2012..thank you HRH Kate!

Celebrate your anniversary whether a year or decades ago always with joy and recollection of the wedding gown you wore. Only yours and uniquely beautiful as you were created to be.

One final Detail..

It really doesn't get enough credit. Perhaps daunting to tie, button or loop it will do its job beautifully and augment a beloved gown. Some fear it. This fear comes from unfamiliarity and misunderstanding of its purpose. I say fear not brides who wear gowns with trains. Your bustle will not only enhance your gown and glide behind you in a swoosh of dreamy fabric, but save your hem an unfortunate tear via your groom's foot. Usually the one to step on the wedding gown is the poor, unsuspecting groom  not comfortable navigating around yards of delicate material.

common 19th century bustled garment

The bustle. It was a staple in women's clothing during the Victorian time of the early to late 1800s. The women were significantly covered in their attire showing only silhouette of the hourglass shape. The bustle added interest and a little booty to the covered look to sneak in some feminine lure. It also did its practical job back then as well, which was to lift the hem for ease of movement.

Back to the 21st century, the wedding gown industry has seen an explosive surge of the "pick-up" style. There are a multitude of pick-up renditions designers offer, but essentially they are bustled dresses inspired by the daily attire women wore two centuries ago. That is why I love vintage gowns so much. They tell us about the past, but inspire us in the future. Below is a breathtaking version of modern bustled or "pick-up" skirt by Lazaro. I'm not a fan of all pick-up looks, but this one is done with a couture twist that is so clean and romantic. Love, love..

silk satin gown by Lazaro

By the way this gown pictured still needs a bustle and a fabulous one at that to complete the look of this dress. The bustle really is the final detail. It's a crucial detail that transforms your gown from one state to another. A gown with a train commands the attention of the admirer in a far different way than the bustled gown. Both should be equally stunning and captivate accordingly. To achieve both looks you should ask your stylist when you first try on the gown how the train will bustle. She should be able to show you a few bustle options for the dress. Not all gowns are bustled the same. It depends on the length, cut, weight and fabric of the train. You will not review the bustle choices again until your first fitting weeks before the wedding. It will then be your seamstress or tailor who offers you bustle options and prepare the bustle for your next fitting. It's always helpful to have those who will bustle your gown on the wedding day present at the second fitting to learn how the seamstress prepared the bustle.

It can take a village on the wedding day to prepare you, dress you and yes, bustle you. The results are well worth it keeping in mind your "bustled" look will be on display for most the wedding starting with the first dance. This final detail-- the bustle-- will mesmerize your guests as it floats into their sight for the first time. Wearing the bustle will mean much more to you as the bride. You'll feel lighter, but more importantly your bustled gown will symbolically show the world you are married, ready to celebrate and fearless!