Luscious, Luxe, Lines

Say it isn't so a bride may anxiously react. That seam actually looks good? My response in the fitting room is an abounding, exuberant Yes!  Seams equate to lines, which happen to be all over a wedding garment. Sometimes seams are designed to be seen others are only inside as part of the dress construction. A designer will thoughtfully create a gown with such lines to enhance the fit and shape of the piece or they will use linear embellishment as focal points. Many brides don't notice "structure" seams on the bodice of a gown or skirt. They just like how the gown looks and feels. I assisted a bride recently who simply said "make me look beautiful." She trusted I would find the gown that perfectly complimented her body type, which I achieved via the lines/structured seams of the gown.

So 1920s by BHLDN

1930s inspired deco gown by Yolan Cris

Chiffon dream by Versace

Then there are those architectural lines many designers are using as embellishment. Last month at bridal fashion week in NYC, I was dizzy with the revival of the art deco look in gowns! The art deco period emerged in the 1920s and spanned worldwide from fashion to skyscrapers until the late 1940s. I was elated to see the "Gatsby" look has returned for brides of today to enjoy. The glorious, linear symmetry which is classic art deco will be seen on bridal gowns in dramatic form like the photos above and in subtle ways as well. Not all brides will gravitate to such looks, but the trend will thread through even the most classic of gowns with symmetric beading and illusion (sheer), higher necklines. Sometimes even the fabric itself will have textured, linear looks that a designer may use like the stunning, lace illusion gown by Yolan Cris to the left. A beautiful choice by the way for a rehearsal, change out dress or just fantastic evening wear.

BHLDN.com

If the a bride doesn't gravitate toward this retro glam look, another way stylists create flattering lines is simply with accessories. Our world is covered in linear options..who knew! When you think about it, jewelry creates lines or should I dare say seams! The layered pearls create drama, dimensional interest and elongate the bodice all at once. I love the contrast of fabric texture in the gown with the luster of the pearls. Of course, I would be remiss to not include a fun, retro handbag one could include with any gown a bride chooses art deco or not. This clutch says on trend, fresh 2013 without diving into it fabric and all. Trends will come and go, which is why a bride should always choose a gown that she loves for her not for necessarily the latest trend. Let the stylist worry about trends and as she will know which ones to select for each unique, bride. Don't be surprised if you see lines covering you somewhere, because in some way subtle or not they will do their job well.

le Chapeau

House of Bianchi 1965

My reverence for vintage pieces yet again inspires my post . This stunning pillbox gem to the left was worn by a bride in 1965, my mom. The original, diaphanous tulle blusher around the hat ignites the fine detail of the embroidery and beading.
The hat could be worn today if a bride wanted to add a little 60s retro to her modern gown.

Hats have been part of the human culture for centuries. We know they were designed for practical purposes, but many over the years have been works of art created for fashion. Hats became an accessory women and men for many years wouldn't leave their homes without. Coco Chanel got her start in the early 1900s designing hats before she transitioned to clothing.  Alas in the last thirty years Americans have entirely excluded the beautiful, head ornament from their wardrobes. In my lifetime, I can't remember making sure I had a pretty hat to match my outfit. I was a child of the 1970s and by then hats were left in their hatboxes tucked away on a closet shelf.

There is one day, however, you can consider a hat for a fashion statement. Your wedding day calls for a reflection of your style and if wearing a pillbox fits with your aesthetic I applaud your choice! Perhaps your mom or another relative has one tucked away somewhere like my mom did. Or there are many talented, fresh designers out there who would love to assist you with this accessory. Placement of the hat is actually very important to update this look from the past. I really like how this bride has her hair down with the pillbox placed just to the side of her head. She also doesn't have a birdcage blusher attached which makes even more of a statement contrasted with her dark hair. This is an amazing look nodding to the past, but very chic and modern. My dream combination personified here!

If you don't think a pillbox or other type of hat will work in your ensemble others to consider that I absolutely adore are the bridal cap (almost a scull/juliet cap) and the fascinator. The cap to the left by Enchanted Atelier is so dramatic and stunning. It almost acts like bangs that draw attention to the eyes. I love its middle age inspiration paired with a strapless gown.
The fascinator to the right is designed by Amanda Sutherland Designer Accessories UK. There isn't a fascinator I don't like as they conjure whimsy and statement all in one morsel, but this one is truly exquisite on this bride's tresses. It gives an almost hat effect, but so couture in its presence.
It creates height and

brings drama to the ensemble enough so that even jewelry is not necessary.
I'm also a huge veil girl. I'll post another day to give veils their deserved mention. These looks above are worn in place of a veil. If you decide the above are simply not you and certainly that is most important, wearing a traditional veil on your wedding day speaks volumes!

Whatever you decide to accessorize on your head will be perfect because you chose it. Having said that, perhaps take a peek inside one of those hatboxes you or a relative may have stored somewhere in a closet or attic. There are so many vintage consignment shoppes popping up everywhere. Maybe pay one a visit. Just holding a hat from another time in your hand can mesmerize the mind and offer perspective and creativity only a hat can.

Freedom

On this last day of August, I leave the month with a grin and memories of an exceptional, day that occurred this late summer month. I was married in August 1994 wearing my white, cap sleeved, silk organza basque waisted wedding gown with an alencon lace bodice handcrafted in Charlestown, MA by Priscilla of Boston. I accessorized with a matching wreath styled headpiece adorned with organza and lace flowers attached to four layers of elbow to cathedral length veiling.  I also wore Mariam Haskell pearl, drop earrings as a finishing touch.The day of our anniversary I decided it was time for my beloved, gown to breath fresh air again and be released from the preservation box I diligently acquired so my dress would stay safe. The excitement flooded back when I touched the dress again instead of just "viewing" it from the window on the preservation box! The crunch of the organza skirt and twinkle of the beading on the bodice conjured sheer bliss and butterflies just as it did the day I wore it.

my dress circa 1994

When trying to select "the one" gown, many brides mention they want to still like the dress years from the wedding day and not ask "what was I thinking?". After freeing my gown that day I realized the gown was certainly not the style of today and perhaps not even what I'd choose now because our taste and style evolves as we mature. However, I still love my wedding gown. It is radiant and captures my youth, which every woman will enjoy feeling no matter when they decide to take a peek at it either in photos or in person. Try not to let that "what was I thinking" ever question enter your mind when deciding on your special, dress. The words "yours" and "special" are what a wedding gown is and will be forever.

Marchesa Fall 2012..Deco neckline!

A quick mention about gown preservation I learned from talented seamstresses I've working with over the years. I wasn't in the wedding industry at the time of my wedding or I would have taken my own advice back then and saved myself some money. You really don't have to get your gown "preserved", which is an extended service beyond dry cleaning. After the wedding, if the gown is significantly soiled you may want to consider a reputable dry cleaner that specializes in wedding gowns to clean it. After it is cleaned or not, store the gown in an old bed sheet that acts as a garment bag. Store it in a well ventilated or air-conditioned closet. The sheet allow the fabric to breath instead of plastic that traps moisture and invites mold.

I will say my gown is out of style now, but as anyone knows fashion is cyclical. Inspiration is always taken from the past. That is one of the reasons why I'm obsessed with vintage gowns because you see so much of them relived in today's styles. I'm dying to get to New York market in October as the Gatsbyesque, art-deco, Princess Kate influences started and will continue to dominate the runways! I'll let you know soon!

Enzoani Fall 2012..thank you HRH Kate!

Celebrate your anniversary whether a year or decades ago always with joy and recollection of the wedding gown you wore. Only yours and uniquely beautiful as you were created to be.

One final Detail..

It really doesn't get enough credit. Perhaps daunting to tie, button or loop it will do its job beautifully and augment a beloved gown. Some fear it. This fear comes from unfamiliarity and misunderstanding of its purpose. I say fear not brides who wear gowns with trains. Your bustle will not only enhance your gown and glide behind you in a swoosh of dreamy fabric, but save your hem an unfortunate tear via your groom's foot. Usually the one to step on the wedding gown is the poor, unsuspecting groom  not comfortable navigating around yards of delicate material.

common 19th century bustled garment

The bustle. It was a staple in women's clothing during the Victorian time of the early to late 1800s. The women were significantly covered in their attire showing only silhouette of the hourglass shape. The bustle added interest and a little booty to the covered look to sneak in some feminine lure. It also did its practical job back then as well, which was to lift the hem for ease of movement.

Back to the 21st century, the wedding gown industry has seen an explosive surge of the "pick-up" style. There are a multitude of pick-up renditions designers offer, but essentially they are bustled dresses inspired by the daily attire women wore two centuries ago. That is why I love vintage gowns so much. They tell us about the past, but inspire us in the future. Below is a breathtaking version of modern bustled or "pick-up" skirt by Lazaro. I'm not a fan of all pick-up looks, but this one is done with a couture twist that is so clean and romantic. Love, love..

silk satin gown by Lazaro

By the way this gown pictured still needs a bustle and a fabulous one at that to complete the look of this dress. The bustle really is the final detail. It's a crucial detail that transforms your gown from one state to another. A gown with a train commands the attention of the admirer in a far different way than the bustled gown. Both should be equally stunning and captivate accordingly. To achieve both looks you should ask your stylist when you first try on the gown how the train will bustle. She should be able to show you a few bustle options for the dress. Not all gowns are bustled the same. It depends on the length, cut, weight and fabric of the train. You will not review the bustle choices again until your first fitting weeks before the wedding. It will then be your seamstress or tailor who offers you bustle options and prepare the bustle for your next fitting. It's always helpful to have those who will bustle your gown on the wedding day present at the second fitting to learn how the seamstress prepared the bustle.

It can take a village on the wedding day to prepare you, dress you and yes, bustle you. The results are well worth it keeping in mind your "bustled" look will be on display for most the wedding starting with the first dance. This final detail-- the bustle-- will mesmerize your guests as it floats into their sight for the first time. Wearing the bustle will mean much more to you as the bride. You'll feel lighter, but more importantly your bustled gown will symbolically show the world you are married, ready to celebrate and fearless!

The Ironic June Bride

classic1950s silhouette
pattern by Gaston Mallet

Photos of my mother's wedding album initially sparked the innate adoration for wedding gowns I had as a child. I recall frequently asking her to look at those photos taken in June 1965. She was a June bride like many of her day. June was the highly coveted wedding month especially during the 1950s and 1960s. "A June bride is always a bride.." sweetly spoken from the movie "Seven Brides for Seven Brothers."I gushed at my mother as a bride dressed in an elegant a-line peau de soie gown with a pill box hat and multi-layered cathedral veil. Not getting enough from the photos, my excitement always lead to her showing me the actual gown carefully stored in her closet. For that moment as I touched the fabric and became intoxicated with the intricate seed pearl beading throughout the gown, I felt dreamy like many young ladies who imagined themselves a June bride like their mom.

An American wedding in the 1950s/60s was fairly cookie cutter in many ways. The sleeved dress was fully petticoated and later classically a-lined. The layered veil and blusher were piled under a hat or tiara. Pearls and gloves were typical accessory choices with handkerchiefs carefully folded in a matching handbag. The maids were mirrored images of the bride except in pastel colors. The wedding was usually at a church and the reception nearby complete with a towered cake and a tiny bride and groom on the tippy top. The music was a band or less and the couple changed in to their "going away" outfits before leaving the reception hall guests onward to their honeymoon in the Poconos, Bermuda or Niagra Falls.

Photo from Martha Stewart Weddings Summer 2012

Today the June bride might still try to capture the mystique of her mother or grandmother's wedding by adding a vintage touch to her day, but what I love the most is today's bride can be"ironic" which is the ultimate chic and still nod to the brides who married before her. The photo above perfectly illustrates my point and one that I constantly remind brides I assist. Go for the big dress you always dreamed of and contrast it with your venue. You don't need to match your venue, be unexpected, create fashion irony and surprise your guests! This will highlight your gown choice tenfold. The bride in this photo epitomizes this concept by pairing a dramatic, duchess satin gown against a massive tree that looks like hay. I adore the contrast of grand meets country. Her dress is unexpected and to some not for that venue, but I say oh yes her choice was perfect for this 1900 barn wedding held in Washington state.

This look above is not for all, but it does shout to all brides, classic to avant garde, today there are no rules like there were in the 50s and 60s. You as a bride can truly be who you are on your wedding day. I still think it's sweet to be a June bride, but the month alone can conjure enough tradition. Wear a satin ball gown on the beach, a cocktail length feathered frock down the aisle of a cathedral, a mint tulle dress in the woods! Stand out and don't blend in as the bride. I frequently hear things like "the walls of my reception room are gold so I have to choose something that goes with it." My response.. do the opposite of the warm tones. Wear an ice blue toned gown and the backdrop will only spotlight you more. Be daring, but within your comfort zone of course. Congratulations June brides! Your wedding month has made history even before you step down the aisle and make your own!

Her princess

She's got butterflies, she's not quite herself, she's got a tear in her eye. She is your mom. Her beautiful, princess is getting married and now she's wearing a wedding gown! Can her heart continue to take the tug of war between happy and sad? She is so excited to witness this new chapter in your life. She is thrilled to be a part of the planning. But today as she stares at you in a wedding dress, she only sees her baby, her princess, her little girl grown up about to be a bride she remembers being herself.

Needless to say, mom has a plethora of emotions and images scurrying through her head when she accompanies you to your gown appointment. In all the years I've assisted brides with their moms in the dressing room, I've observed different ways these emotions manifest themselves. I've seen moms with a deer in headlight look to moms who are boisterous to some who simply cannot allow themselves to accept the gown decision should be made by only one person-the bride.

It can be an wonderful experience for the bride and her mom to share. Most brides include their mom in the wedding gown decision. It is a tradition in our culture brides still honor. I think what brides don't plan on, and how could they unless they are moms themselves, is how their mom will react when the moment comes and the wedding gown is on. In fact, I believe the dynamic goes deeper and the bride herself is surprised how she acts with her mom in the room. Women want to be accepted by our female peers and when mom is in the room she is the ultimate peer.

It can be complicated and not something I'll attempt to analyze further, but I can say I have seen extraordinary examples of the power of mother daughter relationships when they cry, embrace and laugh upon finding The Gown. I have also seen incredible mother figures for brides who do not have their biological mother present at the gown appointment. The bond a bride has with her mom or adopted mom is so apparent during the gown appointment, it is truly heartwarming to observe.

I've been told as a mom myself, you never stop being a mother no matter how old your kids get. As you look at yourself in the mirror in your wedding gown, mom is watching too like she always will with a smile.

It's a bird, it's a hue, it's..

O so delicious "Emmy bracelet" Gryphon Jewelry Designs- Naples, Florida
www.gryphonjewelrydesigns.com

You've heard the expression "flavor of the month?" This flavor of sorts so rich and yummy is my monthly inspiration, but I assure you will not expire at month end. As Spring ads and retail everywhere severely, stun us with "bright" color blocked hues, my luscious shade envelops its admirer with powerful elegance like its namesake. The color Peacock Blue is my new, must have perfect pigment I'm slightly obsessed with!

Peep toe pumps my fav shoe style by the master Christian Louboutin

   I would style a bride in these peep toes with this modern, ethereal gown by Jenny Packham in less than a heartbeat! As I've mentioned repeatedly, color somewhere on a bride is so chic. I always get the question after a bride purchases her gown..What color shoes would match? Oh no, please don't match I say. Gone and good ridden are the days of dyeable shoes. Let each accessory you wear shine and make a statement of its own. This rich, color does just that with a diamond white all the way to an antique, creamy ivory gown.

You may have noticed there is a slight variation in Peacock Blue, which like the bird is unique and completely acceptable. Again, without being fanatical about matching I would pair it all together and have no qualms at all. Its also one of those colors where you'll know it if when you see it. Perhaps hard to explain when sharing with your maids that Peacock Blue is your color of choice. As seen above, grab some yard or fabric from a craft store to get your inspiration and carry it in your wedding planner to take you on a journey of fabulous details that will come from this special, color. Use a touch of it as a gorgeous, accent color. I love this dramatic bouquet with hints of Peacock Blue. The contract in color with the dark tones is magic.

You really cannot go wrong with incorporating a bit of Peacock Blue somewhere in the wedding details. I honestly say this not because SJP started the whole feather in her head craze or because one must wear a feather to be chic or because feathers are retro or because they have deep symbolism or because I just really love feathers on a bride. Those are all good reasons and nothing wrong with any of them. In fact, they are all true. I previously posted about my love of feathers. My point here is if this color came from a another planet's dirt pile, I would still be captivated. It just happens to be inspired by the majestic bird who happens to have be lucky enough to live with such color on a daily basis. Consider it for its beauty alone and then for its purpose (ie feather use).  You can extract the color and not have a single plume on your wedding day or you can use his majesty the peacock's actual plumage and let him adorn your wedding in his full regalia. Either way, your taste will speak volumes. enjoy

the light of creativity will forever flicker..

When I was engaged almost two decades ago, I remember running to the grocery or drug store to purchase as many bride magazines as I could. Back then that was the customary thing to do as you sat with friends giggling, flipping pages and dreaming that one of those wedding gown pages you dogeared might be your dress! Today brides literally have the world at their fingertips to plan a wedding. If there is something a bride wants for her wedding, she can most likely be sure to find it somewhere out there in the cyber market.

What I especially adore is Etsy.com as a wonderful resource for brides. This remarkable concept to showcase hand crafted merchandise can be a delightful aid for just the right additions to your wedding. The prices are usually budget friendly and creations one of a kind, which make the items so special. Of course I can't resist the clutch or shall I say "minaudiere" shown above by Mermaid's Dream in Nova Scotia. The paper bouquets also caught my eye from Candace Krull's Etsy store hailing from Seattle, WA.

This pop of color on the groom's charcoal suit would be scrumptious! Moving beyond the attire, what about gifts for the wedding party or out of town guest gift basket, a sister, mom, etc? Feast your eyes on the special morsels created with love by my dear and talented friend, Susan. Her Etsy shop aesthetic is vintage, French inspired. The delicate sachets to her dreamy home accessories would be the perfect items to gift or accessorize a new, home with romantic reminders of your upcoming or recent nuptials. Her airy, serene master bedroom is such a peaceful haven with the bridal veil draped on the rod iron head board.

If you like what you see and seriously who wouldn't, I implore you to follow her blog:www.evelynandrose.blogspot.com and visit her Etsy store.

She is the reason I began my blogging journey. I instantly fell in love with her words and photos. Though a geographical distance between us, her posts make me feel like I'm in her lovely home sipping tea and reminiscing about our college days. The photos of her work are eye candy so warm, sweet and girly like the artist herself.  I wish her continued success and look forward to seeing where her talents will lead her. 

Though you may have a magazine or two in your midst, I'm sure you've already hit many sites accumulating lots of pages in your favorites file. Let them inspire you and take you on that creative trek toward the wedding details that are a reflection of your style. Perhaps purchase a few Etsy site gems like those mentioned to support and encourage the artists who share their creative hearts with "those that thrive on style"..us.

the Minaudiere

Judith Leiber

Happy 2012 albeit somewhat belated!! It feels so good to be writing again in the new year. I'm thrilled to resume posting in this special month of PINK the cousin to Valentine red.

What is a minaudiere you may ask? Doesn't the French word itself sound so elegant? It's a small case where a woman holds her special items. Yes, we're talking about a purse, handbag or clutch. A minaudiere is so much more as it's usually beaded with pearls, encrusted with gems or framed with gold or silver. Being the detail fanatic that I am, I especially adore the clasps on these tiny, works of art.  It is an accessory that commands attention and transforms the one who delicately holds it into a lady of style.

So why I ask do brides skip purchasing this special, morsel of chic for their wedding ensemble? Some do as I've sold a few in the bridal boutique over the years, but I emphasize few and over the years. Brides today just don't see the need to carry anything but their bouquet on the wedding day and oh my that really is a shame.  Like any accessory a minaudiere will complete the look beautifully as does a hairpiece and jewelry. It doesn't have to be over the top bling. It doesn't have to be Judith Leiber couture.  Although no one does a minaudiere like Judith. I used my grandmother's beaded pearl, clutch (it wasn't small enough to call a minaudiere) which had sentimental as well as a retro vibe that added to my gown. So many brides love a pop of color today with the gown. Why not with a jewel toned minaudiere? Or keep it neutral with something like those pictured above?

If you've been watching the red carpets for any of the award shows so far this year, you'll see all the celebs with their designer gowns, jewels and minaudieres they introduce by name. I think the minaudieres need a bit more camera time so we can get a good look at those couture, darlings. The stylists feel the red carpet look is complete with such an accessory and I couldn't agree more.

I implore you to consider this tasteful, classic, lady like accessory for your wedding day. You will enjoy owning it not only for your wedding but for all the formal events you attend in the future red carpet or not! It will become an heirloom to be enjoyed one day by your grandchild.

As they say the best things come in small packages and I say the best package is the minaudiere.